Pickled

I am in a pickle. I have only been travelling for 5 months but the vagabond lifestyle I have been experiencing has become so addictive, I am not sure I will ever be able to return to living a "normal" life. Countries I used to think were in lands far, far away, are now places I feel comfortable. The idea of travelling alone which used to send me into a panic, now seems like the best way to travel. Staying in one place for an extended amount of time, doing the same thing over and over again now seems boring. Travelling, seeing different places, experiencing unique cultures, meeting new people all the time, are elements of my current life that I don't want to give up. I am so scared to walk through the door of my family home in CT and have my mom to say to me "So, what's your plan? All your stuff is in boxes, and we need to do something with it. Where will you live? What will you do for work?" For someone who has not had a plan in 5 months, and operates on the motto of having the "NO plan, plan", I wonder if I will ever be able to adjust back to the way life used to be... Maybe i will, but I think once a pickle, never again a cucumber. Fortunately I have another 10 months to prepare.

I am currently in Siem Riep, Cambodia, after spending 20 days in Laos. I booked a flight from Hanoi, Vietnam to Bali, Indonesia on July 10th, which means I have a little over a month to see both Cambodia and Vietnam, so even though I would have loved to stay in Laos longer, I have to keep moving.

After my last post I spent another day in Luang Prabang, rented bicycles, toured some temples, spent the afternoon at the waterfalls (again), and a night watching Sherlock Holmes at a guesthouse's outdoor theater. The next day we got a 12 hour bus ride to Laos' capital city Vientiane, another former French settlement perched on the banks of the Mekong. The Bible (my Lonely Planet guidebook) tells me the city becomes more sophisticated every year, and I can see many western additions popping up (coffee shops, restaurants, huge hotel resorts being built on the river).


Although many of my fellow travelers felt Vientienne was just another bustling city, my three days consisted of a visit to the Buddha Park (a green field filled with concrete statues of Buddhas, alligators, temples, and other structures that make for great photo opportunities), a quick stop at the Loas National Museum (where I was horrified to learn that an estimated 260 million "bombies" were dropped in Laos in the late 1960s, 70 million of which failed to explode and continue to plaque the nation's people), a $100 visit to the Australian Embassy to have my burn looked at (my mother is happy, my bank account is not),

a sightseeing trip to the Golden Temple and Vientiane's Arc deTriomphe replica (made from cement donated by the USA - woo hoo, maybe this makes up for all the bombs we dropped), and a couple rounds of bowling at one of the city's two bowling alleys.

You know how it feels when you are sitting anxiously on an airplane waiting to see who your seat-partner is going to be, each person who rounds the corner of different size, shape, and smell invokes horrifying thoughts of how you will spend your upcoming hours. Well now imagine that you have to sleep next to that person for 12 hours. Welcome to the Vientiane to 4,000 Island Sleeper Bus, a double decker bus with 12 beds each housing two people (and if you're alone you're out of luck in picking your partner.) After a brief panic session, a few times of saying "absolutely not", and some desperate pleas to people using movies and cookies as bait, I ended up with a friend I met briefly at my guesthouse (it beat the other options!) But, it still wasn't relaxing rolling around (literally), in a bed with someone you barely know.

4,000 islands is a cluster of islets and sandbars at the end of the Mekong (which really should be named 12 islands, 3,088 grassy patches).

We spent the first two nights at the largest island Dhon Khong, which although 5 times the size of the other islands, there wasn't much going on. With the least amount of Falang (white people), it had an untouched feel, and driving our motorbikes around the flat island, sprouting with raised bamboo homes, water buffalo and decaying temples, felt real. After two nights of going to bed at 8pm, we decided to head to Dhon Det, a more touristy island about 45 minutes down the river via boat.

We spent our days baking in the heat, lounging in hammocks, tubing, bike riding to the other island Dhon Kohn to see a huge waterfall, and our nights watching the sunset, eating at one of the many restaurants, and "partying" in a tiny village which shuts down early.



Since the native waitstaff seem to prefer spending their time watching TV and sleeping, I even spent one night "working" at a local restaurant, bringing people beer, food and menus, while my friends watched with smiles.

The bus ride from Dhon Dhet to Siem Riep was pretty awful. We got picked up at 8am, waited in the boiling sun until 11am for our bus to pick us up, and then after a inopportune trip to the bathroom, I ended up sitting on a plastic chair in the aisle for a 20 minute trip to the border. When we got off I ran through the check-point where corruption allows each person who touches your passport to charge you $1 (yes, they use American dollars here in Cambodia), so I could get an actual seat on the bus. I sat down next to my friend, but when the original seat owner came back a battle ensued, and eventually I had to sit back on the plastic chair for an hour until someone got off the bus. One idiot slept through the checkpoint so we had to wait for him, all of which resulted in a 12pm arrival time in Siem Riep.

Siem Riep has been built up to serve tourists visiting the temples of Angkor, the eight wonder of the world. I hadn't heard anything about the city itself, but was pleasantly surprised. Small streets lined with french-inspired restaurants offer amazing decor and menus (at a fraction of the cost), another huge market selling knock-off's, fresh food and other native souvenirs, and lots of falang. My crew and I got up at 4:30am yesterday to watch sunrise at the Ankor Wat temple, and like any other popular tourist site I was a little disgruntled with my experience. Hundred of people shuttle through the site and line up to get the perfect picture, and then some chick in an all white suit decides to walk onto the temple and become a permanent white blob in your photographed memory. Even though the ruins were amazing, by 10am we were all "templed out", and headed back to our guest house to nap. That afternoon we took a tuk-tuk out to the floating village, 300+ boat houses of Cambodians who fled the Khmer Ruge and 30 years later have stayed on the water. We were inundated by boat-bound beggars, with crying children of all ages chanting "one dollar, one dollar", to which no amount of money we gave was enough. We even bought $5 pencils to give to the floating school, but still left feeling like there has got to be a better way to give to these impoverished people.

My current crew is breaking up within the next couple of days, and my path will take me south. First to Battambang, then Pursat, Phnom Penh, and eventually to the beaches and islands off the southern Cambodian coast before heading into Vietnam around the 20th.